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Why choose us for servicing when deciding where to take your vehicle for maintenance?

Everyone knows the main dealers are generally more expensive than independent garages. But are you getting your moneys worth? No one can deny having the ease of paying for a service plan monthly instead of a lump sum each year is handy, however not when you’re paying up to double the amount you should be. Although our parts can be the same, our labour rate is far cheaper than the main dealers. We are then able to pass that saving onto the customer.

Our servicing covers the same aspects at a fraction of the cost from the main dealer. We use Genuine and OEM only parts enabling your warranty to stay valid. We carry out in depth vehicle inspection on both the interim and major services. We can also update the online service portal keeping your service history up to date. Outlined below is exactly what we include in our servicing to be completely transparent.

Whats included?

Interim – A 26 point Visual inspection of the vehicle: Checking brakes, Suspension, Exhaust systems, Engine State, Auxillery components, Lighting, Wheels and Tyres, Body work corrosion. Replacement of the engine oil and filter. Finally, check and top up all under bonnet fluids.

Major – As per the interim service with a 37 point vehicle check. Removal of wheels and clean hub faces. Check transmission fluids (Excluding automatic gearboxes). Replacement of Engine oil and filter, Air filter, Pollen Filter, Fuel filter*, Spark plugs*. Check and top up all under bonnet fluids.

*Where applicable.

With over 25 years in the business (and a combined staff experience of over 60+ years) you can be sure your vehicle will be in good hands. Our service inspections come with a traffic light system working from green (parts in working order) amber (needs attention within a time frame) and red (unsafe/illegal and needs replacing asap). You can take your vehicle away fully aware of its condition. Any work required we can quote you ahead of your next booking so you know how much it will cost to repair and plan your budget accordingly.

If you need information on pricing and availability you can contact us on 01642 613852 or use our contact page here:

What is ad blue and why do our diesel cars need it?

What is ad blue and why do our diesel cars need it? Ad blue is a solution for Deisel vehicles that meet the latest emissions standards (Euro 6-vehicle built from 2015 onwards). Ad blue helps remove toxic substances from the fumes which have a negative impact on the environment. It doesn’t remove the negative substances completely, but it does reduce them.

AdBlue is used as part of a car’s selective catalytic reduction, or SCR, system and is automatically injected into your car’s exhaust system where it mixes with the exhaust gases, including the NOx. The AdBlue reacts with the NOx and breaks it down into harmless oxygen and nitrogen that comes out of the exhaust pipe and disperses into the atmosphere.

AdBlue doesn’t eliminate all of your car’s NOx emissions, but it does greatly reduce them.

So what issues can occur?

The issue is, Adblue systems can end up with pretty expensive problems. Firstly, you need to make sure your vehicle always has Adblue in the tank. The tank has a sensor which monitors the level of Adblue and will alert you when the level gets to around 1500 miles. If your vehicle runs out of Adblue the vehicle will not start so its something to be aware of! The Adblue filler cap is usually located next to the fuel cap. So you also need to be aware when topping up either fuel or AdBlue that you open the correct cap. This can cause huge issues within both different systems. Just make sure when re filling the tank you clean up any spilt Adblue. The liquid crystalises once it makes contact with air and it can damage the metal and paintwork if left.

Crystallisation can also occur in the system which is where the expensive repairs come into play. Any moisture into the system can cause the liquid to crystalise. This can block up the pipes in the system and the Adblue can then not travel through as it should. This can also occur after very cold/hot temperatures. In temperatures of 30 degrees + the heat/sunlight can damage the quality of the adblue. If you know the bottle has been exposed to direct sunlight and prolonged heat we would advise not adding to the tank and risking problems. We stock a Tunap product which when added to the tank along side Adblue it can decrease the chances of crystallisation within the system.

Properties

• Protects urea dosing systems and SCR catalysts from crystal formation
• Cleans urea dosing systems and SCR catalysts with limited performance due to crystal formation
• Reduced foaming
• Suitable for use by the end customer
• Handy dosage

You can purchase a whole bottle from us or we can top up your Adblue with it on your next service! You can also read more here too:

Technical issues

Faults can also occur within the sensor in the tank. The sensor can stop functioning correctly and tracking the level of Adblue in the tank. It will either monitor the level as 0 transferring a message to the vehicle to not start. Or the opposite will occur, and it could stop sending messages completely and your engine could not start without warning.

Are their any alternatives?

Because of the potentially pricey repairs for Adblue systems some customers consider an ‘Adblue delete’. This is where the Adblue system is in most cases re-programmed out of the system.

However, in doing this you’re are voiding any warranty you have on the vehicle. Adblue is there to reduce emissions therefore with the Adblue system programmed out it will fail an MOT test and therefore become illegal and could potentially result in a prosecution.

If you are having to refill your Adblue more than you should be or having intermittent issues and warning messages, give us a call and book in for a diagnostics test. This will determine any underlying issues within the system, and we can quote you on costs to repair. Call us on 01642 613852 or email us at northeastautotech@gmail.com.

Getting your transporter ready for the summer season? What do you need to do to limit on the road issues. A quick guide to make sure youve checked everything before travelling in your Transporter!

Ideally the best thing to do would be to book your vehicle in for an inspection. This covers battery health, suspension/brakes/tyres quality and more. Our vehicle inspections start from just £39 and will give you full peace of mind before getting on the road! However there are a few things that you can check yourself if you are short on time to prepare yourself!

Battery

Check the voltage – Carefully remove the covers on the battery terminals and connect the positive side of the voltmeter to the positive (red) terminal first. Then connect the negative side of the voltmeter to the negative (black) terminal. Now, check your reading. A healthy battery should read between 12.4V and 12.7V.

Tyres

The legal limit is 1.6mm but for off-road adventures, you want to have the best grip possible. For all terrain tyres, we recommend changing them at 4mm. Having a lower tread depth can cause stopping distances up to 40 metres shorter than a tyre with efficient grip. if your unsure how to check your tyres yourself, read our previous blog here:

Fluids

Checking your fluids is pretty simple. Engine oil is usually checked with a dipstick after the engine has been off for roughly 10 minutes so the oil can settle down.

First, pull the dipstick out and wipe it clean with a towel or rag. Then, reinsert it and pull it back out. The dipstick is marked with maximum and minimum indicators that show how much oil is in your engine. The oil on the dipstick should be near maximum. If it’s at or below the minimum, add more immediately. Oil level is one thing, but its condition is equally important. To check it, you’re going to have to get your hands dirty. Smear the oil on the dipstick between your fingers. It should feel slick and smooth – if you notice any particles or grittiness, components are likely wearing down, which is a major issue.

Also look at the color of the oil. If it’s a yellow or amber color, you’re good to go. If it’s a darker coffee color or black, it’s time for an oil change. Many modern cars have no dipstick at all. Instead, oil levels are checked using sensors within the engine, and displayed on the dashboard. Depending on the car, the engine may need to be cold and turned off or fully warmed up and running to get an accurate reading.

Coolant is able to be checked via the expansion tank. The max and minimum is easy to be viewed. If you find it is low top up with water and keep checking every 50,000 miles or so to check it isnt going down too quickly. If it is and your having to top up every 50,000miles, there is likely an issue.

And ofcourse top up your washer fluid!

Other things to check

Most newer models of diesel Transporters will have Adblue which should be topped up before any travelling. We would also advise checking your bulbs and windscreen washer quality.

Obviously if your checking the vehicle yourself its not as simple to check your suspension. If your vehicle has any knocking noises or juddering then we would advise getting booked in to have the vehicle properly inspected.

This isnt a comprehensive list and there are things that will be missed when carrying out vehicle check yourself. So if you have any worries book in with a garage!

Extras…

As well as the above each camper will have different mods which should be checked. Heating system, Sterilising water tanks, solar systems, gas bottles and pipe work should all be checked before setting off!

If the vehicle has been sat over the winter months the vehicle will need checking for any condensation build up and cleaning down in preparation.

To book in for a vehicle inspection call us on 01642 613852 or message us on facebook here:

OEM parts vs Aftermarket, which do you opt for on your vehicle?

There is a difference between cheap aftermarket parts and Uprated aftermarket parts. Aftermarket parts are made to perform the same function as OEM but they are produced by a third party. OEM parts are as the acronym suggests, original equipment manufacturer. These parts are tested by the auto maker that installed them on your vehicle when it was new. Aka a tier 1 supplier such as Sachs, Mahle and ZF.

Uprated Aftermarket parts are reverse engineered to find the strengths and weaknesses of OEM. The performance specialists can then create parts which perform in some cases better than the original part. This can be done by slightly altering the design or the materials of the product.

Cheap aftermarket parts are created usually using less quality materials and tend to fail much quicker than OEM parts. Yes they are cheaper to purchase initially however if they fail quicker its more economical to fit the correct parts for the job from the start! This is why as a business we only replace faulty parts on a vehicle with OEM parts or if requested Uprated aftermarket parts such as Revo, Racingline and Superpro.

OEM and genuine…

There is a difference and that is that genuine parts are made by the manufacturer and branded and priced as such. OEM parts are as explained above however branded by a third party and priced much cheaper. OEM suppliers are companys such as Lemforder, TRW and Textar. They are usually made in the same factory and go through the same testing as the genuine parts therefore are essentially the same.

What about my warranty?

Always refer to the manufacturers guidelines when looking to use aftermarket parts and consider whether you vehicle is still under warranty. If its still under warranty fitting aftermarket parts may invalidate it if anything were to go wrong.

Obviously we also have to square up our priorities with our budget, vehicle maintenance can be expensive. However this is why we recommend using OEM parts. We carry out extensive vehicle checks before just stating ABC and parts need replacing.

If your looking at upgrading parts to uprated contact us here: We can give you advice for what you are aiming for and send you an estimate!

OEM parts vs Aftermarket

Diesel particulate filters known as DPF are prone to issues if your diesel vehicle is not looked after as it should be, learn their problems and how to prevent them! Diesel vehicles made after 2000 were fitted with a DPF to limit the emissive power of particulate matter into the atmosphere. These filters lower emissions of harmful gases and the impact of diesel on the environment. However as an owner of a vehicle with DPF you need to make sure you are running the vehicle as you should to prevent the DPF clogging up.

Why does the DPF clog?

The DPF filters the emissions from the fuel, soot sits in the filter and limits the amount entering the atmosphere. Driving with additional engine faults causes excessive soot to clog up the DPF. The failure/clogging of the DPF is only a secondary result of poor engine running. This soot unfortunately tends to sit in the filter and clog causing your vehicle to usually throw up the engine management light. The vehicle may have a decrease in fuel efficiency and loss of power.

Diesels with a DPF filter need to carry out a regeneration. This is the process of burning off accumulated soot from the DPF. This prevents it from clogging and reducing the engine’s performance. For the vehicle to carry out an automatic regeneration there are a few stipulations. It requires roughly over a ¼ of a tank of fuel and be driven at a high speed for roughly 15-30 minutes. If your vehicle is used for town driving and short journeys, it will never have the chance to automatically carry out a regen which is when we see problems. This is where you need a mechanic to carry out a forced regen.

Forced regeneration.

Forcing a DPF regeneration can be done using a diagnostics tool. The vehicle needs to be driven for a certain amount of time, at a specific RPM and usually takes around 45 minutes. This can only be carried out if the DPF is no more than 60% clogged up. If its any more than that the DPF may need replacing. This wants to be avoided however as it is a pricey replacement.

Cleaners

We would recommend using the Liqui Moly Pro-Line Diesel System Cleaner ’ Reduces pollutant emissions, thus optimizing smoke opacity prior to emissions test. Successfully tested in international test bench analyses. Cleans injection nozzles, the entire fuel system and combustion chambers of any troublesome deposits. Prevents any seizing up and gumming up of nozzle needles. Optimizes the combustion process and restores the engine’s original performance.

Suitable for all diesel and turbocharged diesel engines with and without diesel particulate filter (DPF). Contents are sufficient for max. 70 l of fuel.

Application

To be added directly into the fuel tank. For preventive use during every inspection, after repairs to the fuel system, for treating problems’

This is not going to stop your DPF clogging however it will help to generally clean out the system when a vehicle is being driven correctly. You can find out more here!

If you’re having DPF problems give us a call on 01642 613825 or use our contact form ‘here’.

DPF problems and how to prevent them